Estelle Yarns Spring 2015 Knit-A-Long
Week 3: Knitting the front of your sweater
Greetings Knitters! We hope that you managed to complete the back of your sweater with ease. If you have, then be sure to share it with us on our various social media outlets! We would love to see how you are making out.
Isn’t it nice to finally have something that even slightly resembles a sweater???? Especially after all of that preparation! Congratulations on making it this far!
With the back of our sweater sitting aside on our stitch holder, our needles are now free to knit the front.
The front and back are knit in the exact same way, until we get to the neck shaping, so you will want to refer back to last week’s post.
Since we want the front and the back to match in length, see if you are able to count the rows that you knit from the hemline to the where you started your underarm decreases on the back of your sweater. This way, you can knit the same number of rows on the front of your sweater, ensuring that they are the same length. You can ensure greater accuracy than if you were to just measure the front and the back against one another. We promise that you will find it much easier to sew the side seams when the time comes.
Do not be scared of counting rows! It’s easy! Think of each stitch as a ‘V’, and count each ‘V’ from bottom to top.
Once you have count the rows from your back, feel free to use a row counter while knitting your front. This way, you can avoid having to count the rows all over again. (But really… it’s not that bad! We promise!)
As a reminder, here is the list of abbreviations used in our pattern.
Here is a list of abbreviations used in our pattern.
K = knit P = Purl st(s) = stitch(es)
alt = alternate approx = approximately beg = begin(ning)
cont = continue dec = decrease inc = increase
foll = following rem = remain(ing) rep = repeat
sl = slip st-st = stocking stitch tog = together
patt = pattern tbl = through back loop in(s) = inches
psso = passed slipped stitch over
Work exactly as given for the back to *
Rep the last 2 rows until 37 ( 37: 41: 45: 45) sts rem, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape the Neck
Next Row: K1, K2tog, K10 (10: 12: 14: 14), SL REM 24 (24: 26: 28: 28) sts onto a thread or needle holder, turn.
Complete first side as follows:
Cont to dec 1 st at raglan edge, as before, on every foll alt row and at the same time dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows, then foll 1 (1: 2: 3: 3) alt rows. 4 sts rem
Knit 1 row.
Next row: K1, K2tog, K1. 3 sts rem
Next row: K2tog, K1. 2 sts rem
K2tog and cast off.
Leave the centre 11 sts on a thread or needle holder.
With right side facing, rejoin yarn at neck edge of rem 13 (13: 15: 17: 17) sts and K to last 3 sts, sl 1, K1, psso, K1.
Complete second side as follows:
Cont to dec 1 st at raglan edge, as before, on every foll alt row at the same time dec 1 st at neck edge on next 4 rows, then foll 1 (1: 2: 3: 3) alt rows. 4 sts rem
Knit 1 row.
Next Row: K1, sl 1, K1, psso, K1. 3 sts rem
Next Row: K1, K2tog. 2 sts rem
K2tog and cast off.
Your finished front should look a little something (well, hopefully a lot something!) like this.
See how similar it looks to the back? The main difference you will find, is that the neck scoops down lower in the front, than it does in the back. Be sure to compare the two however, to make sure that they are the same length from the hemline, to the underarm. If they are not the same length, you may need to rip back the yoke of one side, in order to make it the same length as the other side.
If you would like to download a PDF copy of today’s pattern, simply click the link below.
So, until next week when we are ready to tackle the sleeves- Happy Knitting Everyone! ♥